Our last two months in Korea FLEW by. Usain Bolt style.
We filled them to the brim, and admittedly write this post from America. Change happens, and sometimes your blog can’t keep up.
Partially because we now finally have the time between job searching, and partially because we miss it terribly, we finally got around to document our final sweet moments in Seoul.
Singapore friends Josh and Kendra came to visit!
The friends we visited in Singapore this past summer came to see us in October. We had a wonderful week showing them our lives in Seoul during the prime of Korean autumn. They were great sports about trying Korean cuisine, though we did also get our fill of Josh’s favorite, Mr. Pizza. During our afternoon in Hongdae we went back to the Trick Art Museum, which was even more fun with more people. They visited during the height of the “Gangnam Style” craze, so of course we went to Gangnam. But rather than horse dance around the hoity-toity part of town, we went to Dr. Fish! It was great fun to hangout, play games and drink lots of coffee. Things we do on a regular basis anyway, but are made infinitely better with good company.
Quality time with Vero
Our wonderful friend Veronica endured and enjoyed many adventures with us over the past year. So of course we had packed in as much as possible before we left, especially when her fiance Mau arrived! Unfortunately their wedding was after our departure, but we had the privilege of going to their wedding photo shoot! We’ve discussed some of the differences between Korean and American weddings before, but have not stressed the fun and importance of the photos! While in American weddings all photos are traditionally taken the day of the wedding, in Korea they take them at least 2 weeks beforehand, and spend several hours in a studio working with a photographer and assistant to help them change into multiple outfits. Vero wore at least 3 wedding dresses, they both had traditional hanbok in different colors, and other outfits too! The photographer was very relaxed (and talented), and we had fun taking our own photos and joking around between shots.
Annyeonghaseyo, blog readers! I am Bethany’s little sister, Hannah, who is staying with the “Two Miguks” for the next two weeks! While we were walking through Seoul yesterday morning, Jordan had the idea of making me their “guest blogger” during my visit- so here I am!
My first impression of Korea was sheer joy! 🙂 Due to flight complications I arrived later than planned, so Bethany and I took a bus straight to her work. There I met many of the staff, both Korean and American. They were all exceedingly friendly and welcoming! One of them even added that Bethany and I look so alike in the face (We have heard that one before!) 😉 Then the real fun came when I got to meet her students!
The first class was a class of kindergarteners who were all super adorable and giggly! They were very nice and called me “Hannah teacher” just like they address all the American staff. The next class assured me that the “class clown” is a universal thing, not just singular to American schools. What was most surprising to me was how during the 2 five minute breaks during class, these kids would literally go CRAZYYYYY!!! Not terribly behaved, but just so extremely happy sounding that their jubilence translated into very loud and giggly behavior! I could tell even in the short time these students have had Bethy and Jordan for this new session, those two special people are very well loved by the kids!
On my first morning we decided the best way for me to beat jet lag (as I am writing this the 13 hour difference is hitting me again) is to walk around in the open air! So we went to Anguk to go to Gyeongbokgung Palace. First off, I got to experience the Korean subway system! I really liked it as means of regular public transit. I have been on the subway in New York and the Tube in London and this one takes the cake! It doesn’t have as big of a “jolt” when it takes off and the same goes for when it stops. You can also walk from car to car easily and it is all sooo clean! I appreciated the very thoughtful Koreans who scooted down the bench so that Bethy, Jordan and I could all sit together.
While on the subway I noticed some very interesting things about Koreans. True to what Bethy and Jordan said, the average Korean cares a lot about their appearance. From the clothes, hair, make up, nails, accessories and even iPhone covers. Also everything is very cutesy! From their commericals that played on the subway TVs to the ads on billboards, everything is very “cute”!
After the subway we stopped and got morning caffeine drinks and some yummy pastries! I got a green tea iced latte (SO GOOD!) and they had their Americanos, all served in little mugs! We then procceeded to Gyeongbokgung where they were having a mock style changing of the guard just like in England. The palace was beautiful! As someone who has been in Europe before and appreciated the historic factor, to be able to see this was incredible! That the history of some of the buildings and culture predates so much of the world is mindblowing!
At the palace it really set in that I was in Korea! Seeing the beautiful mountains almost whereever you are made it feel real (Bethy and Jordan have a phenominal view from their apartment)! It was a lovely place to tour around!
Now I can’t mention the palace without talking about a HUGE cultural shock/difference that I most definitely noticed: I stick out like a sore thumb!!!! Since Bethy has dark hair she is seen as a westerner. I have blonde hair that seems to be the equivalent of someone walking around with a 10 foot mowhawk in the states. It is seriously the funniest thing ever!! While we were in the Folk Museum next to the palace when Jordan noticed we were unknowing subjects of pictures. Then while in the same museum I was stopped by a woman who gave me a look that I read as “will you take a picture of my friends and I”. But then she handed the camera to her friend and stood next to me… and I realized that she wanted a picture with me….. funniest moment of my life. So I took a picture with her, then with her friend and I and then with the friend, Bethany and I. Jordan later told me that they had never encountered that before- what can I say, we were just really popular.
On the same note while I was off exploring both with Bethany and by myself (while they were at work) I realized that every person I passed liked to stare. For the first 50 people it was really awkward and I tried to smile/ be friendly back. Bad idea. They all just quickly looked away. Another “celebrity” moment was when I went into a cafe to get wifi (or as they say wipi) the barista girl (a 20 year old) got SO excited to see me. There were plenty of Korean customers there but the blonde haired American is truly a novelty! She followed every step I took back and forth and was super smiley and giggly! Then as I sat down she “told” the other barista who came out of the back room that I was there, lots of head nodding smiling and staring.
For lunch we went to a small place in Anguk where we had dumplings, the Korean rice and tuna roll that looks a lot like sushi, and a cold noodle dish. All of it was very yummy and I am finding myself to be a HUGE fan of Korean cuisine.
Now I am headed out to wake up a little otherwise my jet lag is going to carry me to dream land!
Yet before I go I have to say a collosal thank you to first my parents for giving me this trip as a graduation present and secondly an enormous thank you to my awesome hosts Bethy and Jordan!! I am so blessed and thankful to have this special and very memorable time with them!! 🙂
An-yŏng-hi ju-mu-se-yo (Good night) to everyone!!
-Hannah, the third Miguk (translated to Hannah, the third America)
You may or may not have noticed that there was no “Culture Shock Friday” post this week. It was not because we got lazy or forgot. We promise.
In the last couple weeks we’ve realized that there aren’t as many “shocking” things in our daily life. We’re adjusting to Seoul culture. It’s a healthy, natural process. So we’re saying “goodbye” to our CSF posts.
So you guys are over culture shock? Well, no. We realize that culture shock will be an ongoing part of life here, but in smaller ways (thus less interesting to write about). This just means we get to come up with new goals and aspirations for our regular posts! Stay tuned for the big unveiling next weekend.
We’ve been here for 3 months!
We checked in… with ourselves… to see where we’re at!
Bethany: Pro– My initial answer to this would be exploring the people, food, nooks and crannies of a new place with my husband and working 30 hours a week at a good job. But I’ll be more specific. I love how accessible the city is. It’s ridiculously easy and cheap to get around, and usually pretty fast. We take the train most often, but taxis and buses are also great for more local trips. We’ve only gotten lost on the subway once during our first week here. I don’t miss having a car AT ALL, and have enjoyed watching and joining the culture of public transportation. The only downside is waiting at outdoor stations in subfreezing weather. Plus, as the weather slowly starts to warm up we plan to get bikes to get us around. As Jordan will tell you though, if it’s above 40F/4.5C, I do already love to walk places.
Con– Not speaking (or understanding) Korean. A basic mastery of the language would drastically change the way we live and interact with Korean culture. The hardest part our first few weeks here was having NO idea where to find anything. We’ve since become familiar with our surroundings, how shops and restaurants work, and have made some Korean friends. While this makes daily life quite comfortable, I know there’s still a lot we’re missing. It kind of reminds me of the students who learn to navigate the system and cheat really well rather than actually learn and apply the lesson. Right now we are dependent on our Korean friends to help us do things like get cell phones and go to the dentist. And since it is so easy to get by without knowing the language it’s become difficult to find the motivation to keep up regular studying.
Jordan: Pro– Let me start by saying I originally didn’t want to come to South Korea. I grew up loving anime, manga, and pretty much anything that Japan has exported. With my heart set on Japan, Korea seemed the lesser child. Boy, was I wrong. Korean culture is surprisingly warm and inviting once you learn some of the cultural cues. Koreans have been called “the Italians of Asia”, and I’m inclined to agree. I’d definitely say a pro of living in Korea has been the exploration of this fun and passionate culture. People here are craaaazy about the way they look, the schools they go to, what they eat, who they look like, what other countries they don’t like, etc. Riding on this wave has been eye-opening and fun. This passion for everything, from the perfect cappuccino to the most heartfelt pop idols, is my pro of living in South Korea.
Con– Something that has been challenging has been the connectedness of Seoul to Western culture. Don’t get me wrong, I love Seoul. Lots of really neat little cafes, side streets, and art districts make this city the cultural hub that it is, however those same traits have limited our cross-cultural opportunities. Why do we need to learn Korean when majority of the Koreans we interact with want to practice English with us? Is it cheating us out of a deeper cultural experience when we are homesick and can run to the local Burger King to get a big bacon cheeseburger? (which we have not done, btw) I believe so. The con of living in Korea is how easy life here is as a foreigner. Make me learn Korean, Korea!
2. Describe a lesson you’ve learned about Korean culture.
Jordan: I’ve been impressed seeing an entire country work toward a common goal: the betterment of the country. I’m not saying that every person in South Korea is selfless and works toward the great nation-state, but every student, mother, businessman, cook, politician, and grandparent takes some pride in being Korean. Parents work endlessly to give their children a chance to attend the best schools. Students feel the responsibility to do well in school so that they can be successful. Everyone we’ve met is extremely proud of Korean companies like Samsung and Hyundai. All men serve two years in the army, while not of their own free will, not as begrudgingly as some in other cultures might. The lesson I’ve learned is that when the desire of a country is to do what is important to them (i.e. improve the lives of children, the good of all) it can have a profound effect on the way people live. I wish this was a lesson that was understood everywhere in the world. Everything would be different.
Bethany: Mirrors. They caught my eye during our first couple weeks here. They’re everywhere. Subway stations, beside doorways or on doors, covering elevators, and likely to be found in any given purse. It’s not like I don’t think mirrors are common in America. But the overabundance here was what first tipped me off to an obsession of Korean culture: appearance. (disclaimer: our experience is chiefly limited to Seoul) Both men and women here make their outfit, accessories, hair, nails and skin a priority. It is common for women to take out a handheld mirror after a meal or coffee and reapply makeup, adjust their hair, etc for 3-5 minutes. “Whitening” hand cream is found at any cosmetic store. So many people are impeccably dressed. Success is certainly measured by the designer bag you tote and the luxury clothes you wear (this goes for BOTH men and women).
I’m not familiar enough with culture here yet to know about the perception of eating disorders, but there are plenty of advertisements on the train for plastic surgery. I’ve even had kids talk about parts of their face they want to “fix”. While this could turn into a nasty, pious criticism, that’s not what it is. Now don’t get me wrong, American culture is plenty obsessed with appearance in all kinds of unhealthy ways. To me, it just seems more direct here. More uniform in the way it is practiced. And that has challenged a lot of the little prideful or critical ways that I regard myself. I quickly realized that living amongst the constant mirrors I would have to strengthen my resolve or I would succumb to them. Every single one. So far so good. 😉
FAB FAVES- A few of our favorite things, 3 months in:
Food: (B) shabu shabu. (Or Sam-jang, but it’s a sauce)
Happy Year of the Dragon! We’ve really enjoyed the year thus far, and it is only going to get better. We can feel it!
Below you will find a slideshow. In said slideshow you will see our adventures on the Solar New Year (Jan 1st) and the Lunar New Year (Jan 23rd). For New Year’s Eve (solar) Bethany & I went with our friend Veronica down to the heart of Seoul. We strolled through many of the areas that we have talked about before, but everything was different. You can see that everyone is feeling festive! It was a great time!
For the Lunar New Year, we were graciously invited into the Im household to help make Mandu (dumplings). This was a great way to start out the new Lunar year, and a fun time to learn about new kinds of Korean food. We had kimchi mandu, gogi (meat) mandu, squid jeon, & han (korea) gwa (cookie). Everything was so flavorful and delicious! Bethany & I have yet to find a Korean food that we haven’t liked. Sure we’ve been avoiding some of the more intimidating things, but a year is a long time. I’m sure we will become seasoned Korean food veterans by this time next year.
Oh! Before I forget, a quick question for all of our readers…
~Would you rather see some Korean culture (restaurants/books/music) reviews on the site or recipes for tasty Korean dishes?~
Let us know in the comments below! Whatever has the most votes by the time we post our Culture Shock Friday post will be the big winner! We have some really great posts coming up soon! Keep you eyes peeled and don’t forget to subscribe!
TwoMiguks 